CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion AM with SPF 30

I stumbled upon this excellent drugstore moisturizer on Beauty and the Feast's post on her skincare routine. Since I rarely come across strong drugstore skincare recommendations from the beauty blogging world, I decided this was a must-try. At the time, I had just finished 2 tubs and 1 tube of Nivea Soft. Although Nivea Soft served me well day and night when my skin was not at its best, and although I continue to love that cream and would recommend it to anyone for just about anything, it was time to return to a routine that included a daytime moisturizer with SPF and potentially a night cream.

Priced at about $17 in NYC, this moisturizer is more expensive than other drugstore brands but is clearly more affordable than higher-end skincare from Sephora and department stores. Given a rather high SPF of 30, I thought this made CeraVe an especially good value.

After several months of use, I can safely say that this moisturizer is one of the best I've ever tried. It is a slightly heavy and creamy lotion (not runny, and sits on your finger/palm when dispensed), which I prefer to thinner formulas. What I like most about the formula is that it spreads easily and absorbs well. Unlike heavier creams, it doesn't sit on top of your skin like a film or take too long to absorb. But unlike thinner lotions, it also doesn't seem to evaporate within minutes of applying. My face feels moisturized in the morning, but not greasy. I barely know I'm wearing it, but I love applying it in the morning. To me, that's perfect.

Two other qualities that make this work for me? No fragrance and the slim pump bottle. I know it looks kind of boring and clinical, but sometimes you just want something like that on your dresser, you know?

Initially, I had one very minor concern. Because of the SPF, there is definitely a distinct white cast when the lotion is first applied. It disappears immediately after blending and patting it in, and the SPF doesn't give it that greasy slip of regular sunscreen. It won't show up in photos and it doesn't affect makeup application. I wouldn't label the slight cast a flaw, as it's probably common with higher SPF moisturizers and doesn't affect the performance of the lotion overall.

Although I'm gradually trying to incorporate more natural products into my routine (ones that don't include parabens, for instance - this one does), I'm pretty sure I'll be buying this one again. I don't know if I can manage a natural, SPF moisturizer whose formula I love in a price range that I find affordable. I had one, short encounter with Aveeno's Smart Essentials SPF 30 moisturizer and wasn't impressed. And to tell you the truth, I don't feel the need to experiment too much more with this part of my routine - at least at the drugstore. Next time I try another daytime moisturizer SPF, it might be slightly higher end and from a brand that I've already had good experiences with, like Korres. For a daily essential that will need a refill, this is a terrific product.

$14-$17 @ drugstores

Skin Theories

While I'm no skin guru, I realized that there are some personal and rather unscientific skin theories related to The Neverending Skin Story II that I'd like to share. It is possible that some of these only work for me at this particular moment in my life (given low-stress levels for the first time ever, the warm weather, etc.) but I thought they were worth mentioning:

1) Cleansing is overrated. Seriously. Unless you wear makeup everyday (or heavier products like foundation that should be washed off at night), cleaning your skin like it is a rug isn't going to help matters. A little natural oils never hurt anybody, and I wouldn't stress too much about making sure your skin is uber-clean. I simply don't think it's meant to be completely dirt and impurity-free - nothing could be more unnatural if you think about it. I've found that rinsing my face just with water at the end of the day (I remove any eye makeup separately and my face powder has usually disappeared by the end of the day) seems to work. Obviously, I'm not advocating abandoning basic hygiene - but that usually doesn't require a cleansing routine that lasts more than oh, about 2 minutes, and certainly not everyday. I also think that it works to do a couple of simple things minimally during the week - like exfoliating once or twice, or just running a mild toner over the face and neck a couple of times, using the "Oil Cleansing Method" once or twice, or applying a face mask. In the long run, those steps seem to pay off more for me than rigorous, daily cleansing.

2) Sweating is good. I know we're all desperately trying to minimize the sweat with powders, oil-free products, and blotting mechanisms during the warm weather. But let me tell you, my skin practically shines during the summer after all the sweating naturally rids it of impurities. I have noticed this every summer since I was oh, about 10 years old. Winter skin isn't just dull because it gets dry. In my case, it seems to be because my pores don't have the chance to do a little self-cleaning through sweat (and I have very tiny pores, so they get clogged easily - cleansers don't really help with this). Sounds gross, I'm sure, but I swear by sweat. Sometimes I exercise just to work up a sweat and improve my skin - same idea as a sauna or a steam.

3) Heavier moisturizers are better than lighter, oil-free ones. Again, unless your skin is freakishly oily, I think it's better to stick with heavier moisturizers than lighter ones, particularly as we age and also because most people have combination skin that changes through the seasons. I'm only 27, but I have definitely noticed a change in my skin - mostly, it is a lot drier than at any other point in time. I used to think that oil-free moisturizers were the way to go, but well, they never really moisturized. It felt like I was slathering light goo all over my face - felt nice, but that's about all. I have convinced myself that a little grease and oil (sorry, no better words for those two) are better for anti-aging in the long-run. Although my mom is blessed with superhuman beauty genes, she has also maintained a skincare routine that includes a cold cream for extra-dry skin. The heaviest I've used so far is Nivea Soft (winter and summer!), but it's a great alternative to the traditional cold creams.

4) A spot treatment for blemishes is better than cleansers/toners/moisturizers/etc. that contain blemish-fighting ingredients. This is because those ingredients tend to strip the rest of your skin - a targeted effort is much better. Again, if you have more problem-skin over a larger area of the face (as I definitely have had in the past), this may not apply as well to you. Even then, I'm not sure anyone needs a targeted treatment, a targeted moisturizer, and a targeted whatever else. I know many acne systems are based on this seemingly holistic approach, but I suspect that these regimens are difficult to maintain in the long-run and harsh on the skin. I have found one great spot treatment that works for me (The Body Shop Tea Tree Oil Blemish Stick) and have one prescription cream (which doesn't work nearly as well as the Body Shop stick and leaves my skin feeling gross - basically, I never use it).

This might seem to negate our love for and use of product, product, product! But I don't think they necessarily keep anyone from experimenting and indulging their beauty and skincare cravings. Just a reminder that moderation is important and that realistic expectations might be the key to satisfaction - not unlike most things in life.

The Vicco Glow

If you are of Indian descent and as a child, watched either Indian programming on American television stations or in India, then tell me you're not smiling fondly at the memory of a fair-skinned, wavy-haired Indian women frolicking in a motorboat with her boyfriend, biting into a crunchy piece of fruit, and grinning enthusiastically (watch it here). If you're not, you probably never saw this hilarious and ubiquitous 80s commercial for Vicco Turmeric Toothpaste. It might be my most favorite work of Indian television art. Check out Youtube for other similarly awesome Vicco commercials.

I've always perceived the Vicco brand to be a questionable line of ayurvedic personal hygiene and skincare products based on the benefits of turmeric (although my uncle swears that the toothpaste cured all his dental woes). So imagine my surprise when I encountered positive reviews for Vicco Turmeric facial cream on MakeupAlley.com. I'm not kidding when I say I nearly jumped out of my chair. Beyond the instant brand recognition and flash of nostalgia, I was surprised that the brand had persisted through this generation, and that its products were still sold in the U.S. But I thought - why not? Who cares if some con artist of a yogi is perhaps manufacturing it in a makeshift factory in remote India? It is quite possible that I have used worse without knowing it. Since I use a lot of natural ingredients for face masks and such (turmeric, yogurt, honey, etc.), I wasn't opposed to trying Vicco. Clearly, someone out there (even if it is a gullible follower of the con artist-yogi) has kept this brand alive for a reason, right...?

The Vicco Turmeric facial cream is a multi-purpose treatment and not just a moisturizer. There are 2 versions of this cream - with and without sandalwood oil. I have the one with sandalwood oil, and in my opinion, it works just fine since this cream is on the dry side. Apparently, you can use it for healing purposes (one MUA review said it worked for mild burns), to fade scars/dark marks, and to generally brighten the complexion. At the time I became obsessed with finding it, I was doubtful that this is sold in the U.S. (turns out it is) and so asked a friend visiting India (who swears by its mosquito-bite healing properties) to pick up a tube for me.

A pale-yellow cream with a kind of pearly sheen, Vicco is a sort of "dry" cream - completely non-greasy, although it will appear to have the consistency of cold cream. Once you rub it into the skin, it has the light consistency and smoothing effect of a primer. I love how completely it disappears into my skin - it doesn't add a layer of cream/moisture/grease/oil which needs time to sink in.

Within 24 hours of using this, my skin was substantially clearer than usual. While I don't have raging acne, I usually have lots of tiny bumps and am prone to whiteheads. My forehead gets especially dotted with bumps and whiteheads year-round. I'm never really impressed with blemish-clearing or fighting skincare and treatments, but this is the only cream that dried up those blemishes without drying out the rest of my skin.

Due to cold weather in the Northeast at the time I first tried this, I used it sparingly (once a day or every other day), and mostly on oilier and problem-prone areas. Although the cream won't leave your skin peeling and dry, I just think too much of any good thing is a bad thing. It can leave a bit of a dry, tight feeling depending on your skin type and probably shouldn't be used with too many other drying products unless your skin is an oil rig. I would still highly recommend it for problem skin that isn't nearly bad enough for medication or stronger topical treatments but is blemish-prone and could use some improvement. I would also recommend this to people who prefer natural ingredients. The only thing to keep in mind is that the moisturizing factor of this cream depends on your skin's condition and weather at the time of use, and that you may not want to use it as your primary moisturizer.

Personally, I enjoy this cream more for its smoothing effect and because it really seems to even out my complexion. I want to attribute this to the magical powers of turmeric so I will, but who really knows. It definitely gives my skin more of a "glow" after repeated use, and I have yet to find a product that does anything similar without using harsh chemicals that are marketed as "lightening" or "brightening" or even the dreaded "whitening" commonly seen in Asia (to be fair, I never looked at the ingredients in this product, but I'm leaning towards a don't ask, don't tell policy on that right now).

Sensitive noses, beware - this cream has a strong smell to it (which my friend San couldn't stand). To me, it is no different from that very strong Noxema fragrance, or perhaps I've just gotten used to it.

In the current summer weather, this cream is perfect because it dries up oil without stripping your skin and is just moisturizing enough. It is definitely more of a summer staple, and works brilliantly with my Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch Sunscreen, SPF 55. In fact, the Vicco is kind of its own ultra sheer, dry-touch moisturizer.

Like every product out there though, Vicco may not work for everyone. So if it doesn't work for you, don't blame it on the con artist yogi. In case you don't have massive numbers of friends and family traveling between India and the U.S., Vicco turmeric facial cream can also be found online and at stores like Butala Emporium in New York City. If anyone out there has experienced the Vicco Glow (or not), do share.

The Neverending Skin Story II

I thought I had it all figured out when I talked about products for the late-20-something in Skin Story last year, but alas, all is never well in the beauty/skincare world. Since then, I have changed up my skincare routine considerably. I've never been one to use too many products but for the last 6 to 8 months, I've found a couple of products/techniques that have kept my face remarkably clearer than usual. The essentials of what has been working for me thus far:

1) My Non-Cleansing Cleansing - My hands-off approach to cleansing still involves a few products, but I don't use them regularly and because I don't wear much makeup on a daily basis, I can get away with it. In the cleanser rotation, I have 4 very gentle products:

- Pure jojoba oil (Desert Essences brand) - To gently cleanse (Oil Cleansing Method) every couple of weeks. Also use to remove eyeliner or mascara.
- St. Ive's Apricot Scrub - To exfoliate once a week (no more).
- Burt's Bees Soap Bark and Chamomile Cleansing Cream - To use once in a while or about once a week because it feels refreshing and soothing, especially during summer. This made it onto my list of Things I Bought That I Continue To Love.
- Avene Soap-Free Emollient Cleansing Bar - Use about 1-2 times a week just for gentle cleansing.

With minimal use, these 4 work for me namely because they cleanse and exfoliate gently. If I had to pare this down, it would be the Avene cleansing bar and the St. Ive's scrub.

2) My Special Pomegranate Green Tea Non-Toner Toner - I think used an astringent when I was like 14, and last year, I discovered Dickenson's witch hazel. I don't even bother with that anymore, because I still find it drying. Instead, I brewed 2 parts Bigelow Green Tea (Pomegranate flavor, and widely available), mixed it 1 part rose water (Dabur, an Indian brand but also widely available), and put it in an empty squirt bottle from the drugstore. Voila, instant "toner." I don't use this every time I wash my face, but it removes any makeup if I've been wearing more than usual and it is a refreshing and quick pick-me-up for your face. Plus, it is completely natural and cost me practically nothing.

3) Moisturizer - Day or night, it is no-frills Nivea Soft moisturizer for me. This tub is sort of the younger woman's Pond's Cold Cream, and a much lighter version of both that and the original, blue-tin Nivea cream. Nivea Soft is non-greasy but completely moisturizing, and I use it day and night. I have no problems with it. The soft, whipped texture might be comparable to Pond's Extra Dry Skin Cold Cream (although far less greasy) and the First Aid Beauty creams (from what I've read online).

Optional:

4) Sunscreen - I've tried a couple of SPF-moisturizers (Biore and L'Oreal) that I liked and one that didn't work for me (Eucerin), but now prefer the combination of a regular, simple moisturizer like Nivea Soft and Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch Sunblock-SPF 55. This is largely because the Neutrogena is a great value - higher SPF, great formula, and better performance than the standard SPF-moisturizer.

I had searched high and low for a good SPF-moisturizer that is also a good value, but at nearly $16 for a small amount (1.5 oz), the Biore didn't seem worth it, and the L'Oreal is only SPF 15 (not a major fault, but I thought I could do better). The Neutrogena is about $11 for a huge tube (3.0 oz) of SPF 55, and works just fine with a regular moisturizer or even alone. The truly non-greasy and "dry-touch" formula actually seems to make my skin smoother with an almost primer-like effect. For once, I agree with everything the tube states - "lightweight clean feel," "fast-absorbing," "leaves skin soft and smooth," "waterproof." It should also include "Leaves no embarrassing white cast." Most importantly, it really seems to work in terms of its SPF properties - if this means anything, I've been walking to and from work everyday in the relentless NYC heat, and have just a touch of warmth to my skin and not a crazy tan (sorry, I admit that I don't like getting tanned, and since it's not great for your skin anyway, I'll continue to avoid it). Love it.

No Soap, No Cry - Aid from Avene II

"The day I stopped using soap, my life changed." When I read this quote in "Aging Gracefully, the French Way" from today's NYT, I felt rather validated (take issue with much of the article, but more on that later). This is because for the last couple of months, my face has barely met a cleanser. True, and not afraid to admit it. I have never used regular body soap on my face in the shower. Mostly, I use unexciting and inexpensive cleansers from the drugstore. My biggest splurge has been a $17 Avene cleanser, which worked and felt good, but was not very different from Cetaphil.

A few months ago, I took to avoiding anything with harsh chemicals on my face, which is rather sensitive and prone to whiteheads. More than avoiding certain types of cleansers, I've made sure that I substantially cut down on my use of them. This has not been a problem since I'm lazy and don't really think my face is a rug that needs scrubbing.

My skin has been going through a lot of changes during these late 20-something years and so I preferred the most basic products possible - Avene's Cold Cream Emollient Soap-Free Cleansing Bar seemed to fit the bill. If you think that sounds like a mouthful and a little shady - get over it. It's just a bar of skincare goodness without harsh/drying soapy chemicals and some good old cold cleansing cream in a bar form (Pond's, you should really get it on this). If you ask why I bought a $9 soap (which is pretty inexpensive as far as most cleansers go, even some drugstore brands), the answer is simply that I convinced myself that a non-soap cold-cream cleansing bar is what my skin needs. I fancied an era where women tissued cold-cream off of their beautiful faces. Rather than slather cold cream all over my face, I decided I needed an updated, modern version - which is exactly what this little cleansing bar from Avene is.

It delivers precisely because it does so little - my skin basically feels the same after using it, except it is obviously cleaner. At the same time, there is a lot it doesn't do - strip, dry, irritate, etc. For someone who has always had slightly oily skin, this has been far kinder than "oil-free" cleansers which I'm convinced aggravate acne and sensitive skin. More importantly, because my skin has gotten drier over time (office heating/cooling systems make this worse), and it's too soon for me to use anti-aging products, I prefer to use skincare that is soothing and a little bit more moisturizing. It is so gentle, you could use it everyday.

I use it maybe twice a week, partly because it is expensive and a little smaller than I expected, so I'm conserving (and staying true to a more hands-off approach to skincare). Because the bar is rather rich, I initially found that the creaminess makes it "melt" away a little too fast, and I didn't want to use it all up too soon. However, it's been on my bathroom counter for almost 4 months now and it seems to be hanging in there just fine. If I can't find an inexpensive alternative (and I'm not sure I even want to bother searching and experimenting), this may be a repurchase (gasp!).

Granted, the warm weather always improves my skin, and a much lighter schedule has been easy on the hormones and stress. This makes it difficult to tell what difference this Avene bar has made, but I can say with great certainty that it hasn't irritated my skin in any way and that my face has been rather clear. My skin seems to be at its natural best after a long time (not perfect, but so much better).

Sometimes, less really is more. $9 @ Duane Reade drugstores or online.

Facial TLC, Part Deux

Two years of a full-time job and part-time degree program kept me from indulging in a lot of the kitchen beauty maintenance I grew up with. And I started to wonder if the annoying Indian auntie where I get my eyebrows threaded was right when she pointed out all the dark spots and clogged pores on my face. So after completing my degree 2 weeks ago and a lovely Sunday afternoon yesterday, I decided it was finally time for a little post-graduation skin TLC.

I take great pleasure in doing these little things for myself at home instead of paying for a service at a salon/spa, and I consider having the time, space, and freedom to do my nails or use facial masks a great luxury. More importantly, I really value my solitude - as in, the ability to walk around in my PJ's, watch my never-ending DVR queue of crime shows, fiddle around with my iTunes playlist, sip tea, and nibble on a snack. This makes me feel incredibly liberated, calm, refreshed, relaxed, and also relieved that I can do something to take care of my skin (and my self) without spending a fortune. My very lovely home-made facial on Sunday consisted of a quick oil massage, a sweet-smelling steam, and a scrub/mask. Just what my skin and spirit needed, and maybe yours does, too (I've refined this a bit since my last home-facial back in January 2009 - yes, believe it).

A few of the things you will need:
- A large mixing bowl
- 2 bath towels (1 large, 1 medium will do)
- Whatever contraptions that keep your hair back best
- Any natural oil that is safe for facial skin, such as sweet almond oil, olive oil, or jojoba oil (I use jojoba) - you can use a fragrant one (I used rose oil) for the steam
- Cotton balls
- Any facial scrub or exfoliating mask that you like (I used St. Ive's Apricot Scrub)
- A mild toner (optional)
- A light moisturizer or another natural face oil (optional)

*Quick note on oils - they are really not at all "out there" and are easier to find than you would think. Most natural-foods and organic stores keep them (Trader Joe's and Whole Foods), as do many drugstores and vitamin stores (Vitamin Shoppe). I keep a small bottle of jojoba oil (~$7.00 at Ricky's NYC) and sweet almond oil (~$7.00 at K-Mart, of all places!) for cleansing purposes and also to give my skin a break from chemical-laden moisturizers and zit fighters (none of which I overuse, but still, better to play it safe).

I would list out the steps for this low-key beauty routine, but I'm afraid that would make it seem much more cumbersome then it really is. So I'll keep it simple.

First, heat up about as much water as your bowl will hold (not to the brim; leave about 2 inches) in a kettle. While the water boils, pull your hair back and secure. I have wavy, frizz/curl-prone hair, so I'm extra careful about this to make sure that it doesn't curl up while my head is under the steam. After putting my hair in a bun, I secure with bobby pins, cover my hair with a thin, medium-sized towel, and secure it in the back with an elastic or big claw clip. Then I put on a headband. I look a little bit like a gypsy or a babuskha lady, but hey, you do what you gotta do.

Then, gently massage whatever facial oil you're using all over your face and neck for about 2 minutes. This helps to loosen dirt/grime, open up pores, and moisturize. Leave it on!

Once the water is boiling, turn off the stove and let the water cool for a few minutes. Very hot steam can actually be very damaging, so make sure to do this step. Pour into your mixing bowl, and give it another few minutes to cool. When you sit down for the steam, it should still be rising from the bowl - there just shouldn't be big, billowing clouds of it. Pour in a few drops of a fragrant oil like peppermint or rose oil.

Place the bowl on any table or counter, cover your head and the bowl with the other towel, and just let your face hang over this strange little tent. Keep the ends of the towel a bit free and your face several inches above the rim of the bowl in case the steam is too hot/forceful. This might get uncomfortable for some ofyou - keeping the eyes closed and allowing a little air to come in helps, but otherwise, this is one of the least painful ways to cleanse the skin. I usually get over the initial discomfort pretty fast. Once you start sweating all those impurities pour out, you'll feel why it's worth it.

After 10-15 minutes, uncover the little tent you've made around your face and the bowl and voila - you will be sweating like a pig and look like you've been in a sauna. Lightly wipe a cotton ball over your face and neck.

Don't you dare wash any remaining oil off your face. It's good for you and while it's there, massage the scrub over your face and neck for about 1-2 minutes and leave on for another 2. Wash off with lukewarm water - the scrub will take care of any remaining oil and of course, exfoliate. Pat your face and neck dry. Finish with your toner and a light moisturizer/facial oil. I skip both of these steps because I like leaving my skin alone after all that action and want to let it breathe. I do however, dot a little sweet almond oil under my eyes.

Last step - look in the mirror. Instant glow! Instant freshness! Soft and polished instead of dry and irritated! I'm serious - I wish my skin looked like that everyday.

I think this little routine is ideal once a week or every two weeks, and combined, I think they are more effective than using harsh scrubs and cleansers everyday. For more low-key kitchen beauty, check out my now ancient post on face masks here.

For the Bollywood Or Pocahontas In You

So I may be one of the last people to jump on the ethnic-beauty-bandwagon, but better late than never. I hesitated at first, mostly because I have not tried any of the products out there geared towards 'women of color.' In case you haven't noticed, I've had trouble wielding the most basic of products out there to begin with. While the appeal and usefulness of these new lines will vary from woman to woman, there is definitely a need for cosmetics and skincare that cater to The Ethnic Beauty, which is really like, everyone on the planet.

Some of my fellow bloggers have already talked about Thevi Cosmetics, Vasanti Cosmetics, and Dr. Susan Taylor's Rx for Brown Skin. Whether or not you envision yourself as a multicultural or post-ethnic Disney princess, these lines may have something of interest for you. I know I'm eyeing Rx for Brown Skin because of some wretched post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation I'm experiencing (read - scaring after a zit packs its bags).

It also recently occurred to me that not being able to find the Right or Pefect X, Y, Z of a product might have something to do with how restricted some cosmetics lines are. So I may go for a Thevi blush (or two) soon and see what happens!

Aid from Avene

So my boyfriend Duane Reade had a major makeover. It is worthy of a reality TV series. Inside and out, he looks completely different, and its only now that I realize he was previously a major eye sore. Along with a change in terms of layout and design, a few select Duane Reades have skincare centers (similar to the kind you find at CVS) that carry French skincare lines such Avene and Vichy.

A few months back, I made a few adjustments to my skincare routine, and used the help of a "specialist" at one of these centers to sample products from Avene. The line features products for sensitive, oily, irritated, and aging skin types. As a line of dermocosmetic products (cool word - read more here) that falls somewhere between the usual drugstore and high-end suspects, I decided Avene might be worth a try. I chose the Gentle Cleanser for Intolerant Skin and loved it at hello. It is a light, non-greasy, and non-irritating gel that can be wiped off with a cotton ball or washed off with water.

It took me a few months for my rather sluggish brain to realize that this is sort of a glorified Cetaphil. But if I remember my Cetaphil experience correctly, than the Avene formula is much lighter and leaves absolutely no residue whatsoever. At $17.00, it is pricier than any cleanser I have ever used, and although I think it is worth it, I'm not sure if I'm going to re-buy. I may experiment a little bit more first - I had a decent experience with the samples of the Ystheal Lotion and Cream, and would like to try another cleanser before settling on one. I'll admit that I'm already a sucker for the no nonsense, simple packaging that makes me feel like I'm really not doing much. Might be good enough reason to purchase again.

If you are drugstore obsessed like me, you'll definitely want to explore Duane's latest offerings, especially when a specialist is present and can give you samples. It's about time drugstore loyalists received some high-end treatment!

Tea-Off: Blemish Control

Both myself and Sania have expressed much love for The Body Shop Tea Tree Oil Blemish Stick (read about Sania's love here and mine here). After my 2nd rebuy, though, I was a bit tired - there isn't a whole lot of product for $9 and I wanted to try a similar alternative. I thought it might be best to experiment with pure tea tree oil (which you get a lot of it in a very small bottle at about the same price).

You have to be careful with tea tree oil since it is so concentrated and can dry out the skin easily. This is what I experienced when I used it to zap a zit that was taking it's sweet time to mature and die. I squeezed about a drop or two of JASON Cosmetics Tea Tree Oil (The Body Shop sells its own version as well) onto a cotton swab and dabbed it lightly over the zit 1-2 times a day. The oil definitely did dry up the zit, but also the surrounding skin - additionally, the skin on top of the zit looked scaly and parched. The Body Shop Blemish Stick not only dries, it actually speeds up the overall healing time without major dry-out. The zit I have right now is superficially dried up but seems to still be festering beneath the skin, and has somehow begun to scar even though I barely did anything (I scar very easily lately).

I definitely recommend The Body Shop Blemish Stick over pure tea tree oil - the extra ingredients in it seem to contribute to the healing process in a way pure tea tree oil does not. The blemish stick is also a little easier to use, although definitely not as hygienic. Will keep you posted if I find any comparable zit-zappers!

Skin Breakthrough - Burt's Bees Soap Bark and Chamomile Deep Cleansing Cream

My cleanser dance continues...

Pears' was a good cleanser, but my skin was dry for days even after 1 use. I don't attribute this to Pears', however - my skin has just become increasingly sensitive over the years. Even the simplest products just won't do.

I reconsidered my options and thought back to what I did in high school/college. Back then, my staples were either Oil of Olay foaming cleanser, Clean & Clear foaming cleanser, or Clean & Clear cream cleanser.

I used the C&C cream cleanser the longest, stopping only after reading too many beauty magazines and convincing myself that it was too greasy for my combination/oily skin. But in retrospect, chances are that my skin issues then had more to do with lifestyle and stress than what cleanser I was using. My skin was never irritated or dry as a result of my cleanser then. Now in my 20s, I thought it would be worth a shot trying something similar.

I almost went for the C&C again, but thought that something "natural" might be a small step up. Since my Burt's Bees Peach & Willowbark Scrub has actually worked for me over the last few months, I decided to try the company's Soap Bark & Chamomile Deep Cleansing Cream.

After 3 uses, I think it's safe to say that this is The balancing, non-drying, non-irritating cream cleanser for me. I also feel that it's better to have a slightly moisturizing cleanser (or one that leaves your skin's natural oil balance as is) instead of a drying/stripping cleanser after which you have to slather on some moisturizer anyway.

The Deep Cleansing Cream isn't thick or waxy in the least, but is still rich and soothing. It also washes off easily without leaving any residue. It definitely creates a slight "tingle" on application, which I would normally take to be a sign of irritating chemicals. But this hasn't led to any irritation, and the benefits far outweigh it.

I would recommend this as a safe, reliable cleanser if you're skin is somewhat combination/oily, or if you'd like something richer for the winter months. It might not be the best bet for very oily skin, but could be worth a try - the prevailing wisdom on these things isn't necessarily always correct.

Most of Burt's Bees products list how "natural" it is (this one is 97%), and contain no parabens, phthalates, or sulfates. If you're interested, take a look at this helpful page on their website which advises you on How To Read Your Personal Care Ingredient Labels. And yes, it is also a bargain. $7.99 @ Drugstores

A Skincare Classic - Pears Soap

I've been having terrible luck with skincare products lately - they're either too drying/moisturizing or just plain old irritating, especially with this changing weather in NY. To top it off, I'm starting a Retin-A regimen which will likely make things worse.

My only friends have been Burt's Bees Peach and Willowbark Deep Pore Scrub and The Body Shop Tea Tree Oil Blemish Stick (a true godsend, by the way). I use the scrub every few days and the blemish stick has taken care of some nasty, cyst-like zits pronto. But I've been on the hunt for a gentle cleanser and moisturizer.

I almost turned to Kiehl's, but that's is a bit pricey for me right now. So I rubbed my chin, twirled my hair, read some online reviews, and decided that I should find a basic, gentle soap instead and use small amounts of an equally basic moisturizer (think Pond's or Oil of Olay).

I twirled my hair some more over options such as Dove Beauty Bar when all of a sudden, I remembered Pears Soap. How could I have forgotten about Pears?! Good old, originally British soap now only manufactured in India that I remember my sister and mother using as a kid (and still have a pack of at home - not in new apartment). A unique, transparent, amber bar with a lovely fresh scent that seemed ideal for what I need right now.

I tried to find reviews online (just for fun), but found nada, although there is a great history about it on Wikipedia here.

I'm surprised this doesn't have its own cult following. Of course, very few drugstores or pharmacies carry it. I finally found a few at an awesomely huge 99 cent store that kept everything from "ethnic" brands to Britain's traditional Yardley's soaps. I used it the other day and was relieved at how simple and non-irritating it actually is. Soaps in general are a bit drying, especially in cooler weather, so I plan on using this minimally but so far, it's been a great alternative to more expensive brands. My skin is clean and balanced, and that is about all I need.

For those of you who are into such things, give Pears a try. It's also hypo-allergenic and non-comedogenic, so if you have breakout-prone skin, fear not. At about 99 cents a bar or $2.49 for a pack of 3, you can't go wrong.

On Indian Beauty

Do you want this woman giving you beauty advice? To be fair, the woman pictured on the left has been called the Helena Rubinstein of India - mighty impressive if you ask me. She is Shahnaz Husain, Indian beauty entrepreneur whose Ayurvedic products reach the likes of yours truly from New Delhi to New York. Read about her empire in "Indian Beauty" from the Wall Street Journal.

I myself am a total sucker for "natural" skincare and beauty products, particularly if they are from reputable Indian brands, including Shahnaz Husain, Biotique, and Himalaya Herbal Healthcare. When it comes to Shahnaz, I've had pretty good experiences with the line's kajal eyeliner, moisturizer, and an occasional face "pack" or two. Don't know how I feel about the company's philosophy or business aspirations, but wouldn't it be funny if this was the face behind the latest addition to Sephora, QVC, or Whole Foods?

On a more serious note, I do think it would be a refreshing addition, and would be thrilled to find such products at popular stores rather than hunting them down in Little India or Jackson Heights in NY. Can't say the prices would be so pleasing, but let's see what happens.

Here's to Husain's rosy aspirations...

Quick Cetaphil Update

I felt the need to update my thoughts on Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser because as expected, I've hit a snag with it. Ah-ha! I knew SOMETHING had to be wrong with using this product. My initial review was unexpectedly positive, but I'm having second thoughts.

This is mostly because I don't like the method for using Cetaphil, not necessarily the product itself. You're supposed to slather it onto your face and then wipe it off with a washcloth or tissue. I don't like using tissue because it's not strong enough to take off the cleanser or makeup residue, and also leaves fibers behind. Up until recently, a washcloth was working just fine - now, my skin is a bit dry and flaky in the way it used to be before clearing up. I think it's also more irritable, and I'm sure it's due to the rough texture of the cloth.

I'll admit that I should upgrade to a better quality washcloth, but at the end of the day, the texture of any durable fabric will be somewhat rough for the skin, and I don't like the idea of doing that to my skin daily. I've already tried just washing it off, but didn't find that to be too effective.

What to do?! Not quite sure. I don't want to go back to some of the harsher cleansers I've tried. Either I will use this less often during the week, go back to rinsing it off with water, or try the other Cetaphil products (bar soap, gel cleanser) which can just be washed off.

This shouldn't be so hard, should it?

Thoughts on Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser

I'm a total conspiracy theorist. My worldview has probably been informed more by X-Files than anything else (sorry, college education). So it follows that everytime a dermatologist suggests Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser to me, I'm convinced they have been bought out by Galderma and become secret Cetaphil missionaries.

I've had to go to a dermatologist a few times over the course of my life and whenever I ask for advice about skin cleansers they either say 1) it doesn't matter 2) use Cetaphil. I had tried Cetaphil a few years ago and was unimpressed.

Recently, after another dermatologist (I hadn't been to one in years) recommended it to me, I decided to give it an honest try. Granted, my skin is in much better shape than it was the last couple of times I tried Cetaphil, but I'm not judging on its ability to magically clear up problem skin. Most cleansers can't really do that, and I don't expect one to fix all my problems. So I'm judging this on how clean it actually seemed to make my skin and its overall texture and tone over the course of a few days.

By those criteria, this has actually been quite good to almost excellent since I started using it. The first few days, I didn't really follow the directions and lathered and rinsed with water like I do with other cleansers. However, like with a cold cream cleanser, you're supposed to smear this all over your face and wipe-off, leaving a thin, moisturizing residue.

Well, the wipe-off definitely proved that this stuff can clean as well as take off makeup. However, I didn't like leaving the residue - I just don't think skin can be clean unless it sees some water. I can do without tingly sensations, lather, and fragrance, but water is a must. So what I've been doing is just gently splashing my face with water after wiping it off with a washcloth.

Afterwards, my skin has definitely looked and felt cleaner and fresher, and has so over a few days. I also don't think that you can judge a cleanser solely based on appearance afterwards - plenty of cleansers have temporary effects post-washing and don't do much else until you use it again. But Cetaphil genuinely seems to have returned my skin's natural balance, and it is far smoother than it has ever been without overdrying or making it greasy.

In terms of actual ingredients, however, I don't know if this is actually any more gentle/skin-safe than other cleansers - the ingredient names are pretty much the same as many others. I don't know much about ingredients in facial products and my last few purchases have been "natural" products from Avalon, Burt's Bees, and Dessert Essence (read here) - although I suppose I have no way of knowing how natural and safe those are as well. But since this hasn't caused any other side effects (overdrying, oiliness, irritation, other sensitivities), I think it's as gentle as they come.

As I mentioned, I'm currently using several prescribed treatments so my skin is definitely appreciating their effects as well. But Cetaphil definitely hasn't hurt it either, and I will continue to use. Unlike other cleansers I've used before, I feel comfortable using this everyday. It's also non-comedogenic and fragrance-free so if you have sensitive skin like mine, it's a pretty safe bet. Also comes in different sizes and in generic versions - definitely worth it. $7.99 or less @ Drugstores

Clearly Clear

So with the recent spate of hot and humid NYC days, I've been wearing very little makeup. But I have noticed my skin looking better lately, which got me wondering - which one of the eleventy million skin care products that I use have made the improvement?

I can't say that I'm diligent enough to use a product regularly -- I've got product ADD! -- so I was definitely a bit perplexed. But the answer hit me while I was in the shower this morning. There's one product that I've actually been using according to the label directions, and it appears to be making an extremely positive difference in my skintone and complexion.

I present to you: Clean & Clear SOFT In-Shower Facial. No, really. Clean & Clear. I swear. The same brand that many of us were introduced to in the mid-nineties when Johnson & Johnson introduced a gentler, more feminine approach to skin care. They've apparently been evolving the brand offerings over the past decade, and I picked up this product based on some glowing reviews on other beauty blogs.

And boy, they weren't kidding. C&C In-Shower Facial contains a combination of glycolic acid (AHA), clay, natural fruit acids, and exfoliating beads. The bottle instructs you to spread all over your face, and wait a minute while allowing the steam from your shower to activate the formula. After the minute is over, you massage into your face, and the gentle beads allow for a little bit of physical exfoliation. The instructions say to use this 1-3 times a week, and I've managed to keep that routine up, reaching for the bottle while I'm taking a shower.

The result is simply soft and glowing skin that's not tight or over-dry. I"m talking 'touchably soft' and 'pregnant woman glow' here. (Not pregnant, I swear!)

I'm really loving this product. My skin has achieved a smoother texture overall, and my acne scars have faded pretty significantly. Now, I count that as a miracle. I've been fortunate to have reasonably good skin my entire life, but a particularly heinous bout of hormonal acne in my early 20's left some hyperpigmented scars on my cheeks. Of late, I had been using foundation to cover them up; however, since I started using this product 3 months ago, I find that I don't mind going without.

The best part is - it's cheap! It retails for $6.99 and as part of JNJ's marketing campaign for this line, they've been running coupons on their brand site. With these kind of results, I'm definitely going to try out some of the other products in the SOFT line. I'll report back when I do!

$6.99 @ Drugstore.com

Asprin to the Rescue

After only two uses, I think I'm ready to back up all the wonderful reviews the famous Aspirin Mask (or "pack" in my world, but I'll let it go this time around) has received on MakeupAlley.com (search for "aspirin mask"). One of my male friends used to recommend crushing aspirin with water to create a paste for spot-treatments (didn't really work well for cystic zits - better for surface ones), but I never would have thought it was wise to use this as a mask. Until now!

This is a pretty simple home remedy. You take about 2-3 uncoated aspirin and crush it with a little bit of water (just a few big drops) to make a paste. This is the base of the mask - you can add other skin-friendly ingredients that you might already use in other masks, like vitamin E oil, honey, lemon juice, olive oil, or yogurt.

The first time I used this, I crushed 3 aspirin (I used the Bayer brand) with a few drops of water and vitamin E oil (I was afraid the mask would turn into a drying disaster and wanted some nurturing oil in there). I must say, I was pleasantly surprised. The redness of more irritable patches of skin was almost gone and most of my comodones were significantly reduced in size (something my Clindamycin and Differin do not do). The next morning, my skin definitely appeared clearer.

That was Sunday night. I applied this again yesterday evening, this time mixed with a tablespoon yogurt (I use yogurt masks frequently during the summer). This was much easier to apply with the yogurt - I think it provides a stronger base for the aspirin paste. I massaged it in for a few minutes and then left it in for 5 before rinsing off with lukewarm water. Even better results this time, probably due to the yogurt (which acts as a moisturizer, brightener, and exfoliator).

I know aspirin is anti-inflammatory and is derived from salicylic acid, which probably explains its soothing properties. But I was surprised that there was no irritation or dryness, although I had been sure to prevent that by including moisturizing ingredients (yogurt and vitamin E oil) in my versions and also applying moisturizer afterwards. You can find some information on using aspirin as a skin treatment for rosacea and other skin problems on FutureDerm.com.

This mask is probably also best for surface blemishes (which I have more of) versus cystic acne or other skin problems. While I don't think it can get rid of below-the-surface blemishes, it might significantly reduce their appearance if irritated or inflamed. Perhaps regular use could produce better results - one would have to experiment and see.

Overall, I think this is a great mask (and inexpensive, too) to use a couple of times a week, especially if you already apply one. Just add more or less aspirin depending on your needs and give your skin a break from it once in a while. This seems totally safe to use on the skin, but I would suggest making the paste in a paper plate/cup and throwing it out - I don't like the idea of crushed up medicine lying around in my sink!

I'm quite sure the effects of the aspirin are generally short-lived so I don't think it will improve skin in the long run, but it sure won't hurt it either. I plan to use this regularly with yogurt for the summer, and will develop another recipe for the cooler months. Give it a try!

The Body Shop Tea Tree Oil Blemish Stick

One of my favorite new products has got to be The Body Shop Tea Tree Oil Blemish Stick. I've been on this natural-oils kick to improve my skin (jojoba oil is good, Burt's Bees Herbal Blemish Stick is not so good), and had been meaning to try a blemish-fighter with tea tree oil. I have the Dessert Essence Tea Tree Oil and Awapuhi Cleanser and like it, so I though I would give another tea tree oil product a try.

The Sales Lady suggested that I try this versus pure tea tree oil, which is highly concentrated and should be used carefully. MUA reviewers rave about the results when tea tree oil is mixed with other products or used sparingly, but I agreed that may be not be the best idea, especially for sensitive skin.

I completely understand why this is on Sania's list of things that she has tried and repurchased. I mean, the stuff really works! It's a little green and black tube with a sponge-tip wand that you use to dab the gel-like lotion on trouble spots. Very easy to use, very sanitary, and very portable.

I successfully fought off a monstrous (and I mean Monstrous) zit a couple of weeks ago by dabbing this on the spot a few times a day. I could feel the zit wanting to bust out from under my skin, but luckily, it never did. This stuff dried it up without completely drying the surrounding skin. This didn't happen overnight, however. It took about 2 days, but I was okay with that because the zit definitely didn't get worse during the time and its appearance definitely wasn't as frightening during that period.

That was a cystic zit - I've had a whitehead this week that has reduced in size remarkably over 24 hours. In combination with Neutrogena's On The Spot Treatment, it also substantially reduced another teeny skin bubble that had appeared on my nose.

It has also gradually helped fade some old pimple scars (this was also helped by the acne medication I'm currently using). The key is to apply a few times a day (but don't overdo it) and leave the bad guy alone. You could spread this over problem areas as well since it's gentle enough, but it's meant to be a spot-treatment and should probably be used as such.

Like Sania said, this isn't exactly a miracle stick, but it's pretty damn reliable. Definitely better than some drugstore potions I've tried, and about the same price. I keep it in my bag! $9.00 @ The Body Shop

Avalon Organic Botanicals Lavender Renewal and Vitality for Sensitive Skin Facial Cleansing Gel

I'm still on my cleanser kick (although I'm leaving more and more towards the BB Scrub and Tea Tree Oil Wash), and just received this in an awesome team effort with Sania on Drugstore.com. I basically ordered this because it was on sale, so I apologize for not having some witty rationale behind it (I agree that my wit is questionable so it's just as well).

When I first tried it, I was surprised at how soapy it smelled and the way it lathered, but afterwards, my face still felt fresh (not looking for a squeaky, scrubbed-floor feeling here) and well-balanced without any tightness or dryness, and no irritations over the next few days. I think this is great for summer months and not more than once a day, if that. Then again, I'm opposed to using any cleanser more than once I day....it will of course be drying if you do. I like this for when I'm wearing more makeup than usual or in particularly hot weather where I've been around a lot and my face is grimy and I'm convinced that I need a nice cleanser to feel nice again after a long day.

Overall, a good, natural product to have on hand. It's a large bottle, so will last a while. $11.99 @ Drugstores

The Good Witch

I'm generally not a fan of any beauty/skincare routine that has more than 2 steps. 3 steps are just way out there, and I can't even conceive of more than that. Which is why I've never understood the cleanse, tone, moisturize regimen. I've always felt that using 3 products twice a day is just too much. Since my skin problems began, I've always mixed it up a bit. Only used a toner or astringent during hot/humid weather or when I had make-up, avoid using cleanser twice a day, etc. I did, of course, have all three products, at least through college.

During that time, I alternated between Clean & Clear's Deep Cleansing Astringent and Oil of Olay's Refreshing Toner. I stopped using either one for sometime because I thought they might be drying out my skin.

In India, I started using rose water instead because it was so cheap and I liked the smell. This definitely worked quite well. But I had always liked the smell of the Oil of Olay toner and remembered that it contained witch hazel (a plant with astringent properties used in various herbal remedies), which you can buy separately as a natural alternative to regular toners/cleansers. So I bought a bottle of Dickenson's Witch Hazel Daily Facial Toner, and am quite pleased. It doesn't smell great, but it gets rid of extra dirt/grime, makeup, and other residue without drying out your skin. I use it only a few times a week, but it's safe for daily use. Just dab some on a cotton ball and swipe. There is a Cleansing Astringent too, and they are both basically the same thing. Definitely very refreshing, very natural, inexpensive, and does it's job well. $3.59 @ Drugstores.

Kitchen Face Packs

Yes, from now on, I refuse to say "face mask" - it will be "face pack" instead. Don't ask why they use "pack" instead of "mask" in India. I still cannot understand how anything can be a pack or be packed with regard to the face. However, it feels deliciously defiant to refer to the gooey-ness that we slather all over faces as a pack instead of mask, so here goes.

Again, despite my apparent obsession with product, I'm rather stubborn about skincare and beauty routines. Since age 10, I'd been taught to use most things anyone can find in their kitchen as a beauty product, with the exception of Pond's Cold Cream, Oil of Olay, Baby Powder, and Baby Oil (which, now that I think about it, all deserve special mention on this blog). These included: yogurt, gram flour, turmeric, honey, milk, lemon juice, lentils, rose water, and almonds. When I was younger and would get dreadfully tanned to the point where both grandmothers would gasp in horror at the very sight of my face (let's not get into the very many issues present here), my mom started suggesting that we use some of her handy-dandy food-based packs to keep our skin fair and lovely. I thought this was awesome because I've always been a tad bit earthy and feel better when I can indulge that side of myself.

I thought I'd share some of my face pack "recipes" (although there is of course no science to this - many of these things are generally good for your skin in any combination/proportion) since they are simple and easy to make/use, and since, despite my love affair with drugstores and Sephora, they were my first forays into establishing any sort of beauty routine:

1) Gram Flour/Turmeric Pack - This is a milk/yogurt based-pack, which generally calms and soothes irritated skin, and moisturizes as well. I like to use one weekly/bi-weekly during the warmer seasons since they are cool to the touch and because it helps fade a bad tan quicker (most people like us do not tan well - if you disagree, please comment). The yogurt-based one is slightly acidic and so helps exfoliate.

Combine:
1 tbsp plain yogurt (whole-milk based is best) or
1 tbsp milk (again, whole-milk based)

with
1/2 tbsp gram flour
A few pinches or 1/4 tsp turmeric
1 squirt lemon/lime juice (for oily skin)
1/2 tsp honey (for drier skin)

Apply directly to face and massage gently. Leave on for 5-7 minutes and rinse with warm water. Follow with a light moisturizer, especially if you use the yogurt-based one.

2) Almond Pack - This pack is another great moisturizer and is good at anytime of the year. Soak about a half a palmful (I didn't say I was going to be precise, did I?) of almonds overnight in a small bowl filled with water. Remove the skin from the almonds and grind up either by hand (pretty easy) or a coffee grinder to form a smooth paste. Adding a bit of yogurt or honey can help with consistency here. I like to add a few drops of rose water to also calm/soothe skin.

Apply directly to face and massage gently. This pack is harder to use since it doesn't always give a very smooth consistency and isn't easily slathered on. But stick with it and it will still do wonders. Leave on for 7-10 minutes and rinse with warm water. Follow with a light moisturizer if needed (I don't feel one is really necessary with this pack, unless the weather is cold and dry or your skin is on the drier side.)

3) Lentil Pack - You can find lentils at Indian grocers as well as a lot of other supermarkets now a days. I like the pink kind for this pack. I refer to it as pink because that is what it looks like and because I always confuse my lentils (trust me, when you're a second-generation subcontinental person who likes to be uber-subcontinental, it can happen). For now, let's refer to it as the pink lentil. I think its actually "moong" dal (lentil), but I will verify later.

Soak 1/4 cup lentils overnight and grind into a paste using a coffee grinder or food processor. Add 1/2 tsp freshly grated turmeric and 2-3 tbsp rose water.

Apply directly to face and massage gently. Leave on for 7-10 minutes and rinse with warm water. Follow with a light moisturizer if needed.

4) Plain Yogurt - Take a tablespoon and slather on!

I don't have the best skin but when it has been at its worst, one of these babies has always freshened it up in no time. It's also fun to use them because you can always add natural ingredients like oils (olive, jojoba, or vitamin E) or even sugar as an exfoliant.